Dickey County Fair

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2015 Derby Rules

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Dickey County Fair Demolition Derby

Sunday, July 12, 2015 @ 1:00 pm

Derby starts at 1:00 pm. Tech will start at 10:00 am. ALL cars MUST be teched by 12:00 pm.

Please be sure to carefully read and understand the build rules. If you have questions – CALL Eric Fuher @ (701) 210-0420.

WELD CLASS PAYOUT

1st– $1500, 2nd– $800, 3rd – $500, 4th – $250, 5th – $75

HERBY CLASS PAYOUT

1st – $800, 2nd – $400, 3rd – $200

GENERAL:

  1. A $75.00 entry fee (Driver Only). Pit passes are $20.00 and will be issued a wristband that must be worn.
  2. All cars must be equipped with seat belts for the driver.
  3. No pickups, trucks, ambulances, hearses, sports cars, motorcycles, jeeps or convertibles will be eligible to run.
  4. No 73 or older Imperials, No Imperial sub-frames, and No 60’s Lincolns allowed. No Sedagons (wagons made into sedans), No 2003 or newer Fords.
  5. Only driver shall be allowed in arena after the derby has started.
  6. All drivers must remain in their car after their car is eliminated until the contest is over. Drivers may exit car during fire or removal of debris from derby arena.  Helmet and seatbelt must remain on.
  7. It is illegal to hit driver’s door. Anyone doing so will be called out.  Also, no blocking with the driver door.
  8. All contestants must sign a waiver before participating in the derby.
  9. After second fire, car is eliminated.
  10. One minute contact rule. Any car not moving and making contact for one minute will be eliminated.
  11. No sandbagging or holding! You will be disqualified.
  12. Top three cars WILL be re-inspected before any prize money is handed out.
  13. Only the last two cars running will be pulled apart to determine places.
  14. Any controversies will be taken up at the driver’s meeting.
  15. Judges decisions are FINAL!
  16. No hot-rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
  17. Gates open at 9:00 am
  18. Driver’s meeting is MANDATORY.

CAR PREPARATION:

  1. All glass MUST be removed from the car. NO exceptions.
  2. Original gas tank must be removed. Replacement tank cannot be plastic. You must use a metal boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured ( NO tarp straps or zip ties)
  3. Exhaust system must bbe removed and modified.
  4. All loose chrome, plastic, fiberglass header, door handles, door locks, and wheel weights must be removed. Basically anything that will fall off must be removed.
  5. Inside the car must have all flamable material (carpet, headliner, rear seat, etc.) removed. Driver-side panel may be left in for protection, or foam padding can be added.
  6. Batteries must be removed from engine compartment and securely mounted and covered inside the car.
  7. Gas lines must be modified and safely run through the car.
  8. A-arms, ball joints, and tie rods must remain stock.
  9. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
  10. Transmission cooler lines inside of the car should be covered.
  11. No additional reinforcing of the car is allowed unless specified in the rules.
  12. Radiator must be in stock location and no reinforcing of radiator support. No radi-barrels.
  13. No tires bigger than 16 inches, no split rims, and no studded tires. Tire flaps, double tires, and forklift tires are ok (we don’t want flats) Stem protectors are allowed.
  14. No alcohol running motors.
  15. Cars MUST have functioning brakes.
  16. Up to 8-lug rear ends are allowed, bracing is allowed – spider gears may be welded.
  17. No bottles, cans, or any garbage in trunk or floors of cars. Cars will be checked at inspection.
  18. No water barrels.

CAR BUILDING:

BODY

  1. Only the Outside of Doors may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 1/8” inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials.  If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/bolt/wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/bolts/wires. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only, SAME THICKNESS.  Two inches past rust hole.  Leave the rust in place and repair over it. (Welding doors is recommended for safety)
  2. Number 9 wire is allowed. You can tie the bumper to radiator support (2 spots, 4 loops).  You can tie the rear frame rails together (2 spots, 4 loops).  You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of number 9 wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go around the frame.
  3. Body shaping/creasing can be done on side doors and fenders.
  4. For driver protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from door post to door post, it can X. You can also have a dash bar- you can connect the back seat bars and the dash bars together with one bar,  No more than 5 inches in diameter.  You can weld kickers from dash bar to door bar.  NONE of the above can connect to the frame.  Roll loop to protect driver is acceptable.  No kickers from the dash bar to the frame or from the roll loop to the frame.
  5. Windshield may be protected with screen and/or 2 bars. One bar is allowed in the back window.

FUEL TANK AND PROTECTOR

  1. Original gas tanks MUST be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell (11 gallon max) and it must be properly secured (no ratchet straps or bungees to hold the tank in place)and covered with nonflamable material. No gas cans.  Place fuel tank behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat used to be.  If tank is mounted to the cage it must be at least 6” from any part of the car body.  Tank must be bolted to body sheet metal only (not to the frame) if bolted to the floor.
  2. Gas tank protectors are allowed, no wider than 24 inches in center of car. Must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal (DO NOT POUND SHEET METAL) This may angle straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be at least 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector and floor, one or the other.  Protector must be free floating – not connected to anything but seat bar!

FRAME

  1. Only weld frame seams firewall forward. Fords may cut the tab and stretch/pull the frame.
  2. Minimal shaping of humps 11” each direction from center of hump (22” total) NO other FRAME SHAPING, SQUARING OR MANIPULATING OF FRAMES!! Must remain stock unless outlined in the rules! We reserve the right to drill a ½” hole in the frame to scope. No painting, sandblasting or undercoating of frames, OR USE OF CHEMICALS!!! Car will NOT BE INSPECTED
  3. You may run #9 wire only from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire. This must go AROUND the frame, this cannot be bolted through the frame.
  4. No stuffing or plating of frames.
  5. IF CAUGHT WITH ANY FRAME INFRACTIONS: SQUARING, PINNING, PLATING, SHRINKING, EXTRA SEAM WELDIN, GUSSETS, ETC. OR ANYTHING ELSE YOU CAN THINK OF NOT OUTLINED IN THE RULES WILL HAVE NO CHANCE TO FIX! YOU WILL BE AUTOMATICALLY LOADED WITH NO REFUNDS!!!! NO UNAUTHORIZED FRAME REPAIRS ALLOWED.
  6. Frame rust may be repaired with same thickness as frame and can only weld 1” past frame rust.

HOODS/TRUNKS

  1. Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Threaded rod through the hood is ok and can go through the frame near the radiator support. Firewall hood pins may connect to the top of the frame only.  Maximum size of threaded rod is 1 inch.  Must be straight up and down, can’t angle towards radiator support.  No square tubing or pipe and no kickers.  For Chryslers, weld to the to of frame and top 5 inches of radiator support to rod, no more.  Or you can weld small plate on top of radiator support to run rod through, you are allowed to hold the hood down in 8 places. Must be at least held down in 4 (hood hinges don’t count)
  2. Hoods MUST be removable and MUST be removed for inspection. You may secure it in a maximum of 8 spots no bigger than 1” in diameter.  Hood washers must be no bigger than 5×5 inches.  Hoods can be folded over, but 60% of the hood must be in factory location.
  3. 2- 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame (can go through body mount hole or can be welded to the side of frame) All-thread must be vertical or you may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH!!!

BODY MOUNTS

Body mount replacing is allowed.  No washers bigger than 5×5 inches (flat).  No bolts bigger than ¾ inch.  You must have 1 inch spacer between body and frame.  The only exception is the radiator support- it can be sucked tight to the frame.  No additional body mounts.  Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame (no longer than 5”)  Washers inside frame may not be used as a gusset!

STEERING

  1. A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock components.
  2. You may alter your steerin column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.
  3. Tie-rods may be reinforced.

SUSPENSION

  1. Front suspension can be welded solid for added height, with 2- 6” long 2”x ¼” straps per side.
  2. Rear coils can be welded, tied, or bolted in. No leafing a coil spring car.  Can have chain around rear end and hump on frame.
  3. You may add two leaf springs. The springs must be from another car (NO truck springs) No shackle extensions.  You can flip the shackles – 6 clamps per side.  No more than two main leafs – 10 springs total.  You can have chain around rear end and hump on frame, also, may go from frame to leaf, rear of the axle, 3/8 chain 3/8 cable or #9 wire, one spot per side.
  4. Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well, no homemade.
  5. Use rear end of choice, can be ¾ ton. You can tilt rear end if you wish.  Welded or posi-track highly recommended.
  6. Rear-end housings may be reinforced. Hybrid rear-ends are allowed.  Rear end brace cannot extend more than 6 inches off the stock housing.
  7. K-members on pinch-frame mopars may remove the body mounts and can suck them tight.

ENGINE MOUNTING- PROTECTOR RESTRICTIONS

  1. Any motor can go in any make car- must be in stock location. Motor mounts must be as close to stock as possible (No adding additional supports).
  2. Motor and transmission can be securely mounted, but do not strengthen the frame.
  3. Distributor cap protector is allowed only with the firewall cut out for the DP to pass through. Cannot strengthen car.  There must be at least 6” of clearance between the distributor cap protector and the dash bar at the start of the event.  Distributor cap protector can’t be mounted to the body, frame or cage.  Distributor cap protector CAN NOT touch the cage, front window bars, hood pins at all, or car will be DQ’ed!  Hole has to be cut in the firewall large enough for the distributor cap protector to pass through, cut holle in firewall 2 inches wider and down to where tranny tunnel meets firewall up.  If touching after, cause for DQ.  If you are running a midplate, you must cut a 14” wide hole in firewall from cowl down to where tranny tunnel meets firewall.
  4. You may have a transmission protector. Braces along the side & on top side of transmission.  Brace material can’t be thicker than 1”.  The braces must be attached to tail housing and bell housing only.  8” angle iron mounts welded to frame to hoold cross-member.  Cross-member must be perpendicular to the frame rails with no kickers.  If you run the aftermarket cross-member, factory one must be removed.  If you run a tranny protector you are NOT allowed to bolt tranny/tranny brace to cross-member – only chain or wire it.  Skid plates are NOT allowed.
  5. No reinforcing, or welding on trans tunnel!! MUST remain stock.
  6. Dash bar must be 4” above transmission brace or Ultra-bell.

BUMPERS

  1. Bumper switching is ok. Welding shock horns to bumper and frame is allowed – no added iron, angle iron, or pipe in place of shock horns or mounts. You may weld the bumper directly to the frame.  Welding bumpers on is highly recommended. You may weld bumper skins – without adding additional material.
  2. May weld 12” piece of 3/8” x 4” flat iron on outside of frame. Must attach to bumper. No wrapping the plate around corners of frame.

MISCELLANEOUS

  1. Rumble seat in wagons can NOT be welded – MUST be removed.
  2. Do not tie front and back frames together on uni-body cars.
  3. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
  4. Y-framers may suck the Y together. No added metal, no welding bottom, must leave space on bottom for inspection.  You can put long Y frame bracket along side of frame, or on top of frame, if put on side- do not weld bottom- side and top only.  You may leave bolts in that were used to suck together (2 max per side) no welding on side of frame.
  5. Pre-run cars may weld 4×4 3/16” plate on side of frame – 1 per corner. Halo bar is center line of car.

IF IT IS NOT IN THE RULES IT DOES NOT MEAN THAT YOU CAN DO IT!!!!!! CALL if you have questions.

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Author: wagfarms

Mom to 4 busy boys and passionate about all things agriculture!

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