Dickey County Fair

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Derby Information – 2017

Derby starts at 5:30 pm. Tech will start at 1:00 pm. ALL cars MUST be teched by 4:00 pm.

Please be sure to carefully read and understand the build rules. If you have questions  CALL Eric Fuher @ (701) 210-0420.

WELD CLASS

GENERAL:

  1. A $75.00 entry fee (Driver & 1 Pit Person). Pit passes are $20.00 and will be issued a wristband that must be worn.
  2. All cars must be equipped with seat belts for the driver.
  3. No pickups, trucks, ambulances, hearses, sports cars, motorcycles, jeeps or convertibles will be eligible to run.
  4. No 73 or older Imperials, No Imperial sub-frames, and No 60’s Lincolns allowed.  No Sedagons (wagons made into sedans), No 2003 or newer Fords.
  5. Only driver shall be allowed in arena after the derby has started.
  6. All drivers must remain in their car after their car is eliminated until the contest is over.  Drivers may exit car during fire or removal of debris from derby arena.  Helmet and seatbelt must remain on.
  7. It is illegal to hit driver’s door.  Anyone doing so will be called out.  Also, no blocking with the driver door.
  8. All contestants must sign a waiver before participating in the derby.
  9. After second fire, car is eliminated.
  10. One minute contact rule.  Any car not moving and making contact for one minute will be eliminated.
  11. No sandbagging or holding! You will be disqualified.
  12. Top three cars WILL be re-inspected before any prize money is handed out.
  13. Only the last two cars running will be pulled apart to determine places.
  14. Any controversies will be taken up at the driver’s meeting.
  15. Judges decisions are FINAL!
  16. No hot-rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
  17. Gates open at 1:00 am
  18. Driver’s meeting is MANDATORY.

CAR PREPARATION:

  1. All glass MUST be removed from the car. NO exceptions.
  2. Original gas tank must be removed. Replacement tank cannot be plastic. You  must use a metal boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured ( NO tarp straps or zip ties)
  3. Exhaust system must be removed and modified.
  4. All loose chrome, plastic, fiberglass header, door handles, door locks, and wheel weights must be removed.  Basically anything that will fall off must be removed.
  5. Inside the car must have all flammable material (carpet, headliner, rear seat, etc.) removed. Driver-side panel may be left in for protection, or foam padding can be added.
  6. Batteries must be removed from engine compartment and securely mounted and covered inside the car.
  7. Gas lines must be modified and safely run through the car.
  8. A-arms, ball joints, and tie rods must remain stock.
  9. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
  10. Transmission cooler lines inside of the car should be covered.
  11. No additional reinforcing of the car is allowed unless specified in the rules.
  12. Radiator must be in stock location and no reinforcing of radiator support. No radi-barrels.
  13. No tires bigger than 16 inches, no split rims, and no studded tires. Tire flaps, double tires, and forklift tires are ok (we don’t want flats) Stem protectors are allowed.
  14. No alcohol running motors.
  15. Cars MUST have functioning brakes.
  16. Up to 8-lug rear ends are allowed, bracing is allowed – spider gears may be welded.
  17. No bottles, cans, or any garbage in trunk or floors of cars. Cars will be checked at inspection.
  18. No water barrels.

CAR BUILDING:

BODY

  1. Only the Outside of Doors may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 1/8” inch thick or smaller fill materials.  Top of doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials.  If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/bolt/wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/bolts/wires. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only, SAME THICKNESS.  Two inches past rust hole.  Leave the rust in place and repair over it. (Welding doors is recommended for safety)
  2. Number 9 wire is allowed.  You can tie the bumper to radiator support (2 spots, 4 loops).  You can tie the rear frame rails together (2 spots, 4 loops).  You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of number 9 wire (no chain) in each window opening and may go around the frame. Cable will be allowed in place of 9 wire, but you can not use both.
  3. Body shaping/creasing can be done on side doors and fenders only.
  4. For driver protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from door post to door post, it can X.  You can also have a dash bar- you can connect the back seat bars and the dash bars together with one bar,  No more than 5 inches in diameter.  You can weld kickers from dash bar to door bar.  NONE of the above can connect to the frame.  Roll loop to protect driver is acceptable.  No kickers from the dash bar to the frame or from the roll loop to the frame.
  5. Windshield may be protected with screen and/or 2 bars.  One bar is allowed in the back window. Rear window bar cannot extend past the front trunk seam.
  6. The window bars can only extend 3″ past the window seam.
  7. May have 3 down tubes per side on the door bars only. May only attach to sheet metal. Must be vertical. The 3 down tubes includes the halo bar.
  8. Door bars are mandatory or you will not run for safety reasons.
  9. The driver door may be skinned with up to 1/4” material, but no exceeding more than 3”s past the factory door seams.

FUEL TANK AND PROTECTOR

  1. Original gas tanks MUST be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell (11 gallon max) and it must be properly secured (no ratchet straps or bungees to hold the tank in place)and covered with nonflammable material.  No gas cans.  Place fuel tank behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat used to be.  If tank is mounted to the cage it must be at least 6” from any part of the car body.  Tank must be bolted to body sheet metal only (not to the frame) if bolted to the floor.
  2. Gas tank protectors are allowed, no wider than 24 inches in center of car. Must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal (DO NOT POUND SHEET METAL) This may angle straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be at least 4” off the floor.  Gas tank can’t be connected to protector and floor, one or the other.  Protector must be free floating – not connected to anything but seat bar!

FRAME

  1. Only weld frame seams firewall forward.  Fords may cut the tab and stretch/pull the frame.
  2. Minimal shaping of humps 11″ each direction from center of hump (22″ total) NO other FRAME SHAPING, SQUARING OR MANIPULATING OF FRAMES!! Must remain stock unless outlined in the rules! We reserve the right to drill a ½” hole in the frame to scope. No painting, sandblasting or undercoating of frames, OR USE OF CHEMICALS!!! Car will NOT BE INSPECTED
  3. You may run #9 wire only from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire.  This must go AROUND the frame, this cannot be bolted through the frame.
  4. No stuffing or plating of frames.
  5. IF CAUGHT WITH ANY FRAME INFRACTIONS: SQUARING, PINNING, PLATING, SHRINKING, EXTRA SEAM WELDIN, GUSSETS, ETC. OR ANYTHING ELSE YOU CAN THINK OF NOT OUTLINED IN THE RULES WILL HAVE NO CHANCE TO FIX! YOU WILL BE AUTOMATICALLY LOADED WITH NO REFUNDS!!!! NO UNAUTHORIZED FRAME REPAIRS ALLOWED.
  6. Frame rust may be repaired with same thickness as frame and can only weld 1” past frame rust.

HOODS/TRUNKS

  1. Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire.  Threaded rod through the hood is ok and can go through the frame near the radiator support. Firewall hood pins may connect to the top of the frame only.  Maximum size of threaded rod is 1 inch.  Must be straight up and down, can’t angle towards radiator support.  No square tubing or pipe and no kickers. You are allowed to hold the hood down in 8 places. Must be at least held down in 4 (hood hinges don’t count)
  2. Hoods MUST be removable and MUST be removed for inspection.  You may secure it in a maximum of 8 spots no bigger than 1″ in diameter.  Hood washers must be no bigger than 5×5 inches.  Hoods can be folded over, but 60% of the hood must be in factory location.
  3. 2- 1″ All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame (can go through body mount hole or can be welded to the side of frame) All-thread must be vertical or you may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH!!!

BODY MOUNTS

Body mount replacing is allowed.  No washers bigger than 5×5 inches (flat).  No bolts bigger than ¾ inch.  You must have 1 inch spacer between body and frame. The 1″ spacer has the maximum dimensions of 3″x3″. The only exception is the radiator support- it can be sucked tight to the frame.  No additional body mounts.  Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame (no longer than 5″)  Washers inside frame may not be used as a gusset!

STEERING

  1. A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock components.
  2. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering.  Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.
  3. Tie-rods may be reinforced.

SUSPENSION

  1. Front suspension can be welded solid for added height, with a maximum of 2- 6″ long  2″x ¼” straps per side or welding 2″ of the a-arm down to the frame. Can not do both. A- arm must retain its original shape. Rear coils can be welded, tied, or bolted in.  No leafing a coil spring car.  Can have chain around rear end and hump on frame.

 

  1. You may add two leaf springs.  The springs must be from another car (NO truck springs) No shackle extensions.  You can flip the shackles 6 clamps per side.  No more than two main leafs – 10 springs total. You can have chain around rear end and hump on frame, also, may go from frame to leaf, rear of the axle, 3/8 chain 3/8 cable or #9 wire, one spot per side.
  2. Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable.  They may be shortened or made longer as well, no homemade.
  3. Use rear end of choice, can be ¾ ton.  You can tilt rear end if you wish.  Welded or posi-track highly recommended.
  4. Rear-end housings may be reinforced.  Hybrid rear-ends are allowed.  Rear end brace cannot extend more than 6 inches off the stock housing.
  5. K-members on pinch-frame mopars may remove the body mounts and can suck them tight.

ENGINE MOUNTING- PROTECTOR RESTRICTIONS

  1. Any motor can go in any make car- must be in stock location.  Motor mounts must be as close to stock as possible (No adding additional supports).
  2. Motor and transmission can be securely mounted, but do not strengthen the frame.
  3. Distributor protectors/Full Cradles allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, backside must be no wider than 12 inches. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump. After market cradles are allowed. If running a pulley protector, it must not come in contact with the steering stabilizer or extend past 2″ past the water pump. No portion of the DP may extend past the heads more than 3″. If using a mid-plate setup, the mid plate can be no wider than 2″ past block in either direction. Mid-Plate will not be used to reinforce car.
  4. You have 2 options for tying in your motor: If using a distributor protector: Engine can be attached to the frame in two spots. The motor mounts being one spot and the second spot being one 3/8″ plate welded from the bottom of the engine cradle to the center of the engine cross member no wider than 4”. Your motor mounts and welds holding them must say at least 1” from the factory seam connecting the engine cross member to the frame.
  5. If a distributor protector/full cradle is not used: You will be allowed your motor mounts as well as one 3/8″ x 3″ flat strap per side welded to the top side of frame ONLY! Strap must attach to the head accessory mounts of engine and go directly to frame. No angling forward or backwards to reinforce frame.

TransmissionBrace and Skid Plate

  1. You may run multiple bars down or one solid plate that conforms to the he transmission and may run from the back of the heads or DP to the back of the transmission. If these bars or plate catch the sheet metal excessively you will be required to cut reliefs into the transmission tunnel. Your trans brace can only be 12″ where it meets the transmission cross member. You are allowed to build a 90-degree angle where it meets the transmission cross member and it may be tied down with one 3/8″ chain or 2″ 5/8″ bolts with 1.5″ washers or 2 – 1″ welds.
  2. Transmission Cross Member You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location for the car you are building. You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 1/4″, no longer than 8″ to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you replace the cross member, it can be no larger than 2″x3″x1/4″ square tubing or 2″x1/4″ round tubing. The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side (No Loading/No arched cross members). Crossmember cannot be refabricated in any way. You are required to drill a ½” hole in the crossmember on the bottom side 6″ from a frame rail for inspection purposes. If you don’t drill the hole in advance it will be torched while on the hoist! The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. The transmission brace and skid plate can only meet the cross member over a 12″ surface area. Cadillac frame extensions/tails cannot be welded or connected to the transmission crossmember.
  3. No reinforcing, or welding on trans tunnel!! MUST remain stock.
  4. Dash bar must be 4″ above transmission brace or Ultra-bell.

BUMPERS 

  1. Bumper switching is ok. Welding shock horns to bumper and frame is allowed – no added iron, angle iron, or pipe in place of shock horns or mounts.  You may weld the bumper directly to the frame.  Welding bumpers on is highly recommended. You may weld bumper skins without adding additional material.
  2. May weld piece of 1/4″ x 4″ flat iron on outside of frame . Must attach to bumper. No wrapping the plate around corners of frame. Cannot go farther back than the front of the front most a-arm mount
  3. If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must conform to the following size limits. It can be no larger than 8″x8″. The point must taper over an area of at least 32″ wide and cannot exceed 12″ wide/deep at the tip of the point. The point may only extend out 4″ from the flat part of the bumper. No Part of the bumper may extend past the front most part of the frame rails.

MISCELLANEOUS

  1. Rumble seat in wagons can NOT be welded – MUST be removed.
  2. Do not tie front and back frames together on uni-body cars.
  3. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
  4. Y-framers may suck the Y together.  No added metal, no welding bottom, must leave space on bottom for inspection.  You can put long Y frame bracket along side of frame, or on top of frame, if put on side- do not weld bottom- side and top only. You may leave bolts in that were used to suck together (2 max per side) no welding on side of frame.
  5. Pre-run cars may weld 4×4 3/16″ plate on side of frame – 2 per corner. Halo bar is center line of car.

IF IT IS NOT IN THE RULES IT DOES NOT MEAN THAT YOU CAN DO IT!!!!!! CALL if you have questions.

CHAIN CLASS

GENERAL:

  1. A $75.00 entry fee (Driver Only). Pit passes are $20.00 and will be issued a wristband that must be worn.
  2. All cars must be equipped with seat belts for the driver.
  3. No pickups, trucks, ambulances, hearses, sports cars, motorcycles, jeeps or convertibles will be eligible to run.
  4. No pickups, SUVs, ambulances, hearses, sedagons (wagons made into sedans).
  5. Only driver shall be allowed in arena after the derby has started.
  6. All drivers must remain in their car after their car is eliminated until the contest is over.  Drivers may exit car during fire or removal of debris from derby arena.  Helmet and seatbelt must remain on.
  7. It is illegal to hit driver’s door.  Anyone doing so will be called out.  Also, no blocking with the driver door.
  8. All contestants must sign a waiver before participating in the derby.
  9. After second fire, car is eliminated.
  10. One minute contact rule.  Any car not moving and making contact for one minute will be eliminated.
  11. No sandbagging or holding! You will be disqualified.
  12. Top three cars WILL be re-inspected before any prize money is handed out.
  13. Only the last two cars running will be pulled apart to determine places.
  14. Any controversies will be taken up at the driver’s meeting.
  15. Judges decisions are FINAL!
  16. No hot-rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
  17. Gates open at 1:00 pm
  18. Driver’s meeting is MANDATORY.
  19. All cars MUST be teched by 4:00 PM.

 

CAR PREPARATION:

  1. All glass MUST be removed from the car. NO exceptions.
  2. Original gas tank must be removed. Replacement tank cannot be plastic. You  must use a metal boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured ( NO tarp straps or zip ties)
  3. Exhaust system must be removed and modified.
  4. All loose chrome, plastic, fiberglass header, door handles, door locks, and wheel weights must be removed.  Basically anything that will fall off must be removed.
  5. Inside the car must have all flammable material (carpet, headliner, rear seat, etc.) removed. Driver-side panel may be left in for protection, or foam padding can be added.
  6. Batteries must be removed from engine compartment and securely mounted and covered inside the car.
  7. Gas lines must be modified and safely run through the car.
  8. A-arms, ball joints, and tie rods must remain stock.
  9. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
  10. Transmission cooler lines inside of the car should be covered.
  11. No additional reinforcing of the car is allowed unless specified in the rules.
  12. Radiator must be in stock location and no reinforcing of radiator support. No radi-barrels.
  13. Any tire will be allowed, must be air filled. No larger than 7” wheel centers are allowed. No bead protection. May have valve stem protectors.
  14. No alcohol running motors.
  15. Cars MUST have functioning brakes.
  16. Any 5 lug rear-end in any car. No braces, must mount the same as per factory for vehicle it is in.
  17. No bottles, cans, or any garbage in trunk or floors of cars. Cars will be checked at inspection.
  18. No water barrels.

BODY

1.Doors may be chained in six locations per door, seam between front and rear doors counts as 1 for each door.  Or you may weld two 4 x 4 x 1/8 plates on vertical seam only.  Driver door may be welded solid for safety.

  1. No body shaping allowed.
  2. No 9 wire or chain in areas other than specified.
  3. Cage may be no larger than 4” material and must be free floating. May have dash bar, door bar.  Can connect them on each side with one bar, but may not be in front of dash bar, or extend 6” beyond rear of door bar.  No tubes connecting to floor other than halo bar.  Halo may be welded to sheet metal only, NOT FRAME.
  4. May have 2 windshield bars, 1 rear “window bar.  No bars can go more than 3”s past window seam.

FUEL TANK

1.Original gas tanks MUST be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell (11 gallon max) and it must be properly secured (no ratchet straps or bungees to hold the tank in place) and covered with nonflammable material.  No gas cans.  Place fuel tank behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat used to be. Tank must be bolted to body sheet metal only (not to the frame) if bolted to the floor.

  1. NO gas tank protector/mounts.

FRAME

1.No frame welding allowed.

  1. No frame shaping allowed.
  2. IF CAUGHT WITH ANY FRAME INFRACTIONS: SQUARING, PINNING, PLATING, SHRINKING, EXTRA SEAM WELDIN, GUSSETS, ETC. OR ANYTHING ELSE YOU CAN THINK OF NOT OUTLINED IN THE RULES WILL HAVE NO CHANCE TO FIX! YOU WILL BE AUTOMATICALLY LOADED WITH NO REFUNDS!!!! NO UNAUTHORIZED FRAME REPAIRS ALLOWED.
  3. No rust repair on frames allowed.

HOODS AND TRUNKS

1.Hoods must have access for fires to be extinguished.  Front hood pins may be welded to top of frame only and core support.  Hood may be attached in four spots (Not including hinges) with max of 1” all thread.  Hood pins may attach to sheet metal only unless otherwise stated.

  1. Trunk lids may be cut or folded.  May secure with 4 plates of 4 x4 x1/8, 4 chains, or 4 locations of 9 wire.

BODY MOUNTS

Body mounts must remain stock with exception of hood pin at core support.

STEERING

 1.All steering components must remain stock to that model of car.  No altering or reinforcing unless otherwise stated.

  1. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering.  Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.

SUSPENSION

1.No reinforcing or altering of suspension allowed.

  1. All cars may run 1 chain, 9 wire, cable per side around rear-end and frame humps.
  2. No added leafs, no double coils or front coils in rear.
  3. Coil spring front ends may use turn in spacers for added height.

ENGINE MOUNTING

1.Any motor can go in any make car- must be in stock location.  Motor mounts must be as close to stock as possible (No adding additional supports).

  1. Motor and transmission can be securely mounted, but do not strengthen the frame.
  2. You are allowed lower cradle only, no pulley protector on it.
  3. May use 2 3/8 chains or 1”x 1/8” strap to secure motor.

BUMPERS

1.No stuffing or plating bumpers.

  1. No hard nosing bumpers.
  2. Any factory bumper on any car.
  3. May seam weld skins.
  4. Bumper can be welded to shock, shocks welded to frame.  No extending shocks.

MISCELLANEOUS

1.Rumble seat in wagons can NOT be welded – MUST be removed.

2.Do not tie front and back frames together on uni-body cars.

3.All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.

4.Sliders are allowed if so desired.

IF IT IS NOT IN THE RULES IT DOES NOT MEAN THAT YOU CAN DO IT!!!!!! CALL Eric @ (701) 210-0420 if you have questions.

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