Dickey County Fair

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Derby Rules

Limited weld car rules
General Rules
Any year car may be used other than 1973 and older Imperial’s, 1969 and older Lincoln Continental’s. Convertibles may not be used. No imperial frames or sub-frames may be used. No 03+ FoMoCo cars. Car bodies and frames may be swapped but must be a direct bolt on application.
• All glass, door panels, headliner, carpet, plastic and all sharp objects must be removed from the car.
• All cars must have brakes capable of stopping at the beginning of the heat, if at any time during the heat the brakes fail you will be disqualified.
• All cars must have a working seat belt. Be sure to read last page about inspection.
• All frames must remain stock unless otherwise written.
• You may not patch any frame rust.
• Any year car may tilt the frame with a total of 14 inches of welding between the rear most part of the A arms and the transmission cross member. You may tilt by pie cutting, or cutting of the tabs at firewall. If you choose not to tilt or if you choose to cold bend; then you may instead weld 14 inches of frame seem between the rear most part of the A arm and the transmission cross member. All cars may weld top frame seem from the front of the A arm bracket to the front bumper. This weld may be ½ inch wide and no more than ¼ inch tall. You may not re-stub frames.
• Y frame cars may suck the Y’s together, they may not be bolted together. You may weld the frame back together both top and bottom where you sucked it together.
• Factory K-member cars may suck the K frame tight to the frame and may weld a total of 14 inches to the frame using no filler metal. If you choose to do this, it would be your 14 inches of A-arm back frame welding.
• Bumper shocks may be interchanged on cars and welded on but they may not extend further back than the front most part of the spring pocket. 1 set of shocks or brackets per car. They may be contoured to the frame but may not go through the frame in any way. If you choose not to run a bumper shock you may use a 4”x 3/8” flat plate. The plate may have teepee in middle. Bumper shocks may to the front side of the spring pocket.
• Frames may be shortened but only to the front body mount hole. Body mount holes may not be altered in any way, this includes moving them or making them larger. You must be able to get 1 inch threaded rod through the original body mount hole. Uni-body cars may not shorten frames as they have no body mounts, the ends may be cut to square though to make bumper mounting easier. Cadillacs must have 18 inches remaining from the spring bucket lip forward. Rear frame rails may not be shortened at all.
• You may beat rear humps in on one side only, it may only be 8 inches from center each way, so only a total of 16 inches may be beat in. No other frame shaping may be done.
• Bumpers may be welded to bumper shocks/ brackets, or the bumper may be welded directly to the front of the frame. Holes may not be cut into bumpers to allow a bumper to be moved back.
• Bumpers may be interchanged and maybe seam welded. You may also stuff and/ or plate your bumper. You may run a homemade bumper, the main beam may be no taller than 8 inches by 4 inches deep. It may have a 12 inch point on it that must span no less than 38 inches across, the 12 inch point will be measured from the back of the bumper to the point. If using a homemade bumper for your rear bumper it must be flat and no more than 8 inches tall by 4 inches deep.
• Max front bumper height is 22” from the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Rear bumper may be no lower than 14” to the bottom of the rear frame rail.
• Transmission cross members must be stock to the car you are running. You may not run a cross member from a different car; if the stock one is not available you may use a piece of 2”x 2” square tubing 1/4” thick. It must attach in a factory manor. You may use a piece of 2”x2” angle iron ” thick by 6 inches long to mount your cross member. Transmission cross members may not be preloaded (arched), these must be straight side to side!!!!
• Cars that have frame extensions must stay 1” away from transmission cross member.
Engines and Transmissions
• Any engine/ transmission may be used in any car; the distributor must remain in front of the factory firewall area.
• Distributor protectors are allowed, but must be attached to engine and transmission only, backside must be no wider than 12 inches. Forward supports may not extend past water pump. Firewall must be cut out to clear distributor protectors and midplates. Mid-plates and distributor protectors may never come into contact with any part of the firewall, dash bar, or window bars! Pulley protectors are allowed but if you use one you must remove your sway bar or bend it down to clear the pulley protector. Sway bar may not be welded to the frame in any way.
• Transmission braces are allowed. The transmission brace may only come into contact with 12 inches of the transmission cross member. It may only touch the cross member on a total of 2 sides.Transmission braces may be attached to the cross member using only 2- 5/8 inch bolts. Transmissions may be chained to the cross member but not the frame, they may only be chain if not bolted.
• If you choose not to run any kind of transmission bracing which includes full braces, skid plates and transmission mid-plate. You do not have to slice your floor.
• Slider drive shafts may be used.
• Radiators in factory position may be used or you may use a roof mounted barrel using up to (😎 3/8” or larger bolts to secure it, the barrel must be a non-pressurized system. If you use a stock radiator you may use a 1/8” piece of flat steel for radiator protection.
• Firewall must be cut out to accommodate distributor protector and mid-plate.
• You may weld the engine cradle down solid to the engine crossmember, 6 inches on each side. No part of your drivetrain or protectors may be welded to the frame, engine cross member only.
Cage and Inside of Car
• All cage material must be no larger than 6” OD, unless otherwise specified. It must be a minimum of 4 inches off the floor except the 4 down bars, this includes the transmission tunnel. No cage material may be within 6 inches of the firewall or engine components (including distributor protectors and mid-plates). You may have a dash bar following the already mentioned standards. You may have a seat bar. You may have a driver’s door bar and passenger door bar, these must be inside the car and no longer than 62 inches. You are allowed a halo bar over the roof of the car, this may attach to the frame but may only be welded to the topside of the frame. You are allowed one down bar (one driver side one passenger) to the frame. This bar may be no larger than 2”x3” and must be within the front doors, it may only be welded to the topside of the frame.
• Battery must be in a steel box and must be secured to the floor or cage. Gas tank must be secured to floor or cage, gas tanks must be made of metal (no plastic tanks). Gas tank protectors are allowed, they must be 4” away from any sheet metal, and no more than 36” wide. No sheet metal may be removed or hammered to create extra room. It must be 3” away from your rear window bar, and may only be attached to your seat bar. You are also allowed to attach it to your halo bar uprights in 2 places per side • A single rear window bar is allowed. It may not touch more than 4” of the roof, it may not touch the halo bar. It may not cross the trunk lid seem.
• Front window bars are allowed, 2 bars may be horizontal, 2 vertical. No part of the window bars may ever touch your mid-plate, distributor protector, or carb protector. Build your bars accordingly or you will cut or be disqualified!
• Homemade steering columns may be used. Cable gas pedal, floor mounted brake and any shifter may be used.
• floor board rust may be patched. You may also patch roofs and pillars as well. Max thickness of 1/8” and may only go 1” past the rust.
Rear-ends and Suspension and Wheels
• Any 5 lug car or 8 lug pickup rear-end may be used, the rear end may be braced. Pinion brakes may be used. Axle savers are allowed.
• Watts link conversions are allowed. The upper mount must bolt on, the lower mount may be welded to the frame. Do not use mounts to reinforce the frame, we will make you cut them. Upper and lower arms may be 2”x2” square tubing that must bolt into brackets and must not be solid.
• Front suspension may be swapped out but must bolt onto the new car using existing holes, you may not make your own new holes to bolt parts on. This applies to steering parts as well. The part must be able to be bought from a part store or off of another car. After market ball joints are allowed.
• Front suspension may be welded down only using (2) 2”x6” x 1/4” flat plate connecting the frame/ spring pocket and the A arm. One strap must be on the front of the A arm and one on the rear of the A arm. These may only be on the upper A-arm, not the lower. The A-arm straps may not extend more than 1” past the widest part of the A arm. May use aftermarket tie rods.
• You may run threaded rod to replace the shocks in the front suspension. The threaded rod must not exceed 1”. You may have a 2”x2” plate by ” thick on both the top and bottom of the A arm. The plate must free float and not be welded to anything. This is to help set bumper height, not to reinforce anything.
• No coil to leaf conversions. Coil spring cars may double coil springs. Coils may be wired in both around the frame and the rear end. You may use up to 4 coil spring spacers per coil if you so choose. Control arms may be reinforced or may use 2”x2” tubing that pivots freely. Leaf spring cars may have a total of 7 leafs with 1” stagger, these may not be flat stacked. Leaf spring cars may add 4 leaf spring clamps per side (2 in front of axle, 2 behind), these must be made from flat steel 2”x ” thick using 3/8” bolts.
• The rear end may be chain around the frame, the chain must go around the frame and be 3/8” max; it may not bolt or be welded to the frame.
• No solid rear suspension. Car must have bounce in the rear, not just tire bounce.
• Full wheel centers may be used. Any air filled tire may be used. No split rims. Valve stem protectors may be used but must stay within 5” of the valve stem. Lip protectors are allowed. Tires may be screwed to rim. No full wheel protectors. Stud savers are allowed. Beadlocks are allowed on the inside of rim only.
Body mounts
• Body mount bolts may be replaced but only with 3/4” bolts. Only a 3 “x” washer may be used on both the top and bottom side. The bottom nut and washer must be inside of the frame and may not extend through the bottom.
• Body mounts may be replaced with steel spacers 1” thick. If you choose to use the original rubber mount, it must retain the steel inside as well.
• Firewall body mounts may be stitch welded to the frame. All the others must free float, none may be welded to the body in any way.
• No added or moving body mount bolts.
Hood, Trunk and Doors
• Hoods must have a minimum of a 12”x12” hole cut in them.
• Hoods may be tied down in a max of 6 spots using 1” threaded rod, only the front one may go to the frame, they must go through the body mount hole then may be welded to the frame after that. Uni-body cars may weld directly down the side of the frame or may bolt through the frame only near the core support. The other points may only be sheet metal to sheet metal.
• You may have a spacer at your core support. It may be made of 2”x2” ” tubing. It may be welded to your core support and your frame. It may only be welded to the top of the frame, not down the side. You may have 2 spots of 4 loops of #9 wire from your core support to your bumper. No other #9 wire may be used.
• Doors and trunk may be welded 5” on 5” off using 5” wide strap metal. Driver Door may be welded solid using 5” wide strap metal. Driver’s door may be sheeted, no more than 6” onto the front fender and 6” onto the rear door area, no wrapping it around onto the frame. No threaded rod through trunk lid. Please have an 8”x8” hole cut in the trunk lid for inspection
. • Car bodies may be creased. Do not crease or shape any part of the frame other than what is specified in the above rules.
• You are allowed (5) 3/8” bolts per fender well, you may wrap your fenders around to the core support with an additional 5 3/8” bolts; (10) 3/8” bolts in the hood and trunk
Call if bringing a pre-ran car.
Just because something is not stated in the rules, doesn’t mean you can do it. Please call or text Austin Kelly @ 701-710-0855 for any questions.